Our Japan travels
Follow the journey through the places and experiences that stayed with us.
M&M Travel Journal · Japan
Hakone travel guide
Two nights, a traditional ryokan, and a little courage.
Quiet gardens, our first communal onsen experience, and a mountain journey to Lake Ashi. Mount Fuji never came out of the clouds, but Hakone still gave us exactly the break we needed.
A breather between cities
Was Hakone worth two nights?
Absolutely. We wanted somewhere between Kyoto and Tokyo where we could get into the countryside, stay in a traditional Japanese inn, and try an onsen. A view of Mount Fuji was on the wish list too.
Hakone gave us a different rhythm. Instead of another day of city sightseeing, we had gardens to wander, hot springs to settle into, and a journey where the trains and ropeway were part of the fun. We were glad we made room for it.
Our base: Hakone-Yumoto
We came from Kyoto by Shinkansen to Odawara, then changed to the local train for Hakone-Yumoto. The village made a convenient base, with shops and restaurants to explore.
The streets felt surprisingly quiet during our visit. We wouldn’t assume they always are, but that slower atmosphere was a welcome change after Japan’s busy cities.
Where we stayed
Yoshiike Ryokan: gardens, tatami, and mixed reviews of the futons
We had wanted to stay in a traditional ryokan for a long time. Yoshiike had the simple lines and tatami room we were hoping for, with an outlook onto the grounds that made it easy to slow down.
Comfort is personal
I loved the futon, the buckwheat pillow, and an exceptionally comfortable comforter. Years of backpacking had probably helped prepare me for sleeping close to the floor. I slept beautifully.
Michelle and her mom didn’t sleep as well. I’d still keep the experience, but it’s worth thinking about the bedding you find comfortable before choosing a room.
We loved the time between sightseeing
The gardens were a highlight: ponds full of koi, carefully shaped trees and shrubs, and water flowing through the grounds. Walking around with birds chirping and the river in the background was wonderfully peaceful.
This was a place where staying at the hotel was part of the trip. We’d leave time to enjoy it instead of treating the room as somewhere to sleep between outings.
A first we were nervous about
The onsen nerves disappeared surprisingly quickly
The idea of stepping naked into a bath full of strangers had me on edge. Looking calm on the outside and feeling calm on the inside turned out to be very different things.
Then I got in, and nobody even looked up. That was the moment the anxiety melted away. The other bathers were simply there to enjoy the water.
Different baths, equally happy travelers
We used the separate men’s and women’s bathing areas. Michelle loved the outdoor pools, the stars, and the sound of flowing water. I came back convinced the men’s bath—with huge stones, a river nearby, and steam catching the lights—must have been the better one.
We never really settled that debate. We did agree that the experience was incredibly relaxing.
An evening in our yukata
Afterward, we wandered the grounds in the yukata and slippers supplied by the ryokan. It felt completely natural because other guests were doing the same.
The gardens had a different atmosphere after dark. Those quiet walks were as much a part of our Hakone memories as the sightseeing.
The journey was part of the day
Over the mountains to Lake Ashi
We set out hoping for that picture-perfect combination of lake, forest, a red torii gate, and Mount Fuji. Getting to the lake turned out to be an experience in its own right.
A train, a cable car, then a ropeway
The mountain train from Hakone-Yumoto toward Gora climbed using switchbacks: stop, reverse direction, and climb again. We loved seeing how it worked.
At Gora we changed to the steep cable car toward Sounzan, then boarded the ropeway over the mountains toward Lake Ashi. Each change of transport brought another view.
The volcanic landscape around Owakudani was striking. We changed gondolas and continued toward the lake rather than stopping to explore the thermal area. That’s something we’d allow more time for on another visit.
The view we found
Lake Ashi, a forest walk, and a hidden Mount Fuji
We loved the wooded walk beside the lake and the little red torii standing in the water. Matt had a very specific photograph in mind: the gate in the foreground, forest along the shore, and Mount Fuji beyond.
Fuji had other plans. Clouds completely hid the mountain. It was disappointing to miss the photograph, but we still enjoyed being there. The lake and forest were worth the walk on their own.
What we’d leave time for next time
The sightseeing boats on Lake Ashi looked appealing, but we didn’t take a cruise. We’d consider one on another visit, along with a longer stop at Owakudani.
We wouldn’t squeeze those into the day at the expense of the ryokan. Having time to enjoy the grounds and baths was a big part of why these two nights worked so well for us.
Plan a comfortable visit
Our Hakone travel notes
Choose your base for your trip
Hakone-Yumoto worked for our arrival from Kyoto and our ryokan stay. For Yoshiike, the hotel lists roughly 15 minutes on the local train from Odawara, followed by about a seven-minute walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station.
Check the pass coverage
The Hakone Freepass covers the mountain train, cable car, ropeway, Hakone Sightseeing Cruise, and designated bus routes. It doesn’t mean every service in the region is included. Choose the version for your starting point; the Romancecar needs a separate limited-express ticket.
Give the journey enough time
Several changes of transport made the day interesting, but they also took time. Leave room for queues, walking, and a comfortable return. Check Hakone Navi’s current transport information before heading out.
Book the room that suits you
Ask about bedding, access, and the meal plan before booking. The hotel offers plans with and without meals and lists different arrival requirements. Check those details directly, especially if you have dietary needs.
Visitor information checked October 2026. Our video records an earlier trip; fares, schedules, access, and hotel policies can change.
See it with us
Watch our Hakone travel video
Come along for our ryokan stay, the honest onsen conversation, and the journey over the mountains to Lake Ashi. Our own photographs and video stills bring the trip to life.
Watch our Hakone video on YouTube ↗
Keep exploring Japan with us
Next stop: Tokyo
From Hakone’s quieter pace to the energy of Japan’s capital.
Would we go back?
Yes. Even without a glimpse of Mount Fuji, Hakone gave us gardens, mountain views, and a first onsen experience we’re glad we didn’t talk ourselves out of.
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