M&M Travel Journal · Iceland

Iceland stays with you.

Glaciers, black sand, waterfalls—and a country we could keep coming back to for the rest of our lives.

We’ve been twice, and Iceland still tops my list of the most beautiful places I’ve visited. This is our Iceland travel guide to the places that stayed with us, the lessons we learned, and how we made an expensive destination work for our budget.

Watch our Iceland video ↓

Memories from two visits · South Coast, Golden Circle & Reykjavík

Icebergs and red kayaks on an Icelandic lagoon beneath a vast glacier
Ice, mountains, and a sense of scale that photographs can only begin to capture.

Why we return

A place that makes you feel small—in the best way.

We’ve seen extraordinary scenery in New Zealand and Switzerland, but for me, Iceland is still the one to beat. It isn’t just a single famous waterfall or one perfect viewpoint. It’s the way the landscape keeps changing: green hills, black volcanic ground, blue ice, and then another waterfall you hadn’t quite prepared yourself for.

Our video brings together different places and personal thoughts from our visits. So does this page. Think of it as a collection of favorites to help shape your own trip, rather than a day-by-day itinerary around the entire Ring Road. Our summer flowers and autumn northern lights belong to different visits.

Big falls. Little memories.

Waterfalls worth making time for.

These falls each have their own character. The first four belong to our South Coast story; Gullfoss is on the Golden Circle.

Seljalandsfoss falling from green cliffs beside a winding stream

South Coast

Seljalandsfoss

Seljalandsfoss makes a wonderful introduction to Iceland’s South Coast: a ribbon of water dropping from green cliffs into an open landscape. It was one of our early stops, and exactly the sort of scene we had hoped to find.

Pair it with nearby Gljúfrabúi rather than rushing straight back to the car. Waterproof layers are worth having close at hand.

Gljúfrabúi pouring into its narrow moss-covered canyon

Beside Seljalandsfoss

Gljúfrabúi

This waterfall is tucked inside a narrow, mossy cleft in the rock. Getting close felt like stepping into a different world—and gave us one of our favorite memories.

While others picked their way across rocks, Michelle waded through in her waterproof gear and stayed dry. Mine did not perform nearly as well. Expect spray and wet footing; follow the conditions and signs on the day.

Visitors dwarfed by the waterfall and spray at Skógafoss

South Coast

Skógafoss

People at the base look tiny beside this wall of falling water. Even after seeing so many waterfalls, Skógafoss still made us stop and stare.

Its broad curtain and constant spray give it a completely different character from the hidden Gljúfrabúi. We would make room for both on a South Coast trip.

Foss á Síðu descending a tall green cliff above the countryside

South Coast countryside

Foss á Síðu

Foss á Síðu caught our attention with its long, slender drop and green countryside. The surrounding cliffs are as much a part of the scene as the water itself.

It is one of those reminders that the scenery between Iceland’s headline attractions deserves time too. Our video shows it from the air; that view is not a walking route.

Rushing water and mist at Gullfoss waterfall

Golden Circle

Gullfoss

Gullfoss has a different kind of drama: from some angles the rushing water seems to disappear into the earth. The power of it is what stayed with us.

We have kept it in the waterfall collection here, but plan it with the Golden Circle rather than treating it as another South Coast stop.

The places I could stare at for hours

Glaciers, floating ice, and Diamond Beach.

Dark-streaked Sólheimajökull glacier reflected in still water

South Coast glacier

Sólheimajökull

Sólheimajökull was one of my favorite places. Standing near that immense sweep of ice felt like getting a glimpse of the Ice Age. Dark streaks, jagged surfaces, and reflections made it hard to look away.

Enjoy the landscape from permitted viewpoints; going onto glacier ice is something to arrange with a qualified guide.

A narrow waterfall dropping down cliffs above the Sólheimajökull glacier landscape

A view from our drone

The waterfall beside Sólheimajökull

One of the most striking waterfalls in our film sits above the glacier landscape. I joked that it was one of the most amazing places I had seen—or at least my drone had.

We are including it because it is part of the story, but we did not hike to it. Treat this as an aerial view to enjoy, not a separate accessible trail stop.

Helmeted visitors following a guide between blue ice walls on the Katla ice-cave excursion

Guided excursion from Vík

Katla ice cave

We loved our guides and the small-group feel of this excursion. Moving between walls of blue and dark-streaked ice was a very different experience from viewing a glacier at a distance.

Check current guided tours for your dates. Caves and access change, so the exact chamber in our video is a memory of our visit, not something a future tour can promise.

Blue icebergs floating across Jökulsárlón with snowy mountains beyond

Glacier lagoon

Jökulsárlón

Watching ice move through Jökulsárlón is an experience in itself. The blue water, scattered icebergs, and mountains beyond it made this a place to linger rather than simply tick off.

We would plan the lagoon and nearby Diamond Beach together, allowing time for the wide view as well as the smaller details along the shore.

A clear piece of glacial ice sparkling on the dark shore at Diamond Beach

Near Jökulsárlón

Diamond Beach

Pieces of glacial ice washed onto the dark shore give Diamond Beach its name. Some are large and sculptural; others look like small glass treasures against the black sand.

It is a lovely companion to the lagoon, but the ocean is part of the scene too. Keep well back from the surf and enjoy the ice from the shore.

Fjallsjökull glacier descending between mountains toward a gray lagoon

Glacier and lagoon landscape

Fjallsjökull

The broad, fractured face of Fjallsjökull gave us another perspective on Iceland’s ice. In our aerial footage, it stretches down toward the gray water with mountains rising behind it.

This is a separate glacier landscape from Jökulsárlón. Our film’s aerial view helps show the scale; it does not mean we walked on the ice.

A different world around every bend

Canyons, moss, and black sand.

Green ridges and dark braided riverbeds in the Katla Geopark landscape

South Coast landscapes

Katla Geopark

Dark volcanic ground, green mountains, and braided waterways made this landscape feel almost unreal. Away from the busier stops, the sense of space was part of what we loved.

Katla Geopark is a broad area rather than a single attraction. Use our scenery as inspiration, then check the roads and access for the particular places you plan to visit.

A river winding between the green steep-sided walls of Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon

South Coast canyon

Fjaðrárgljúfur

A river that seems modest opens into these extraordinary, jagged canyon walls. It is the kind of place that makes you stop talking for a moment.

The view down into the canyon was the highlight for us. Follow the marked paths and any closures so the green edges stay intact for the next visitors.

Rounded lava formations covered in thick green moss at Eldhraun

Moss-covered volcanic scenery

Eldhraun lava fields

The thick moss draped over the lava made Eldhraun feel like another planet. After glaciers and waterfalls, this quieter landscape offered a completely different texture.

Give it a little time rather than treating it only as scenery through the windshield. Enjoy it from established paths and leave the moss undisturbed.

Purple lupines carpeting a field beneath a green South Coast hill

A summer memory

South Coast lupine fields

Broad fields of purple lupines changed the whole mood of the landscape. Against Iceland’s green hills and dark ground, the color was something we could not pass without enjoying.

These flowers belong to our summer visit. They are a seasonal part of the scenery, so do not expect the same view during an autumn northern-lights trip.

Aerial view of Reynisfjara black-sand beach with cliffs and white surf

Black-sand beach near Vík

Reynisfjara

The dark beach, cliffs, and white surf make Reynisfjara immediately recognizable. It is one of the strongest contrasts in our South Coast footage.

This is also a place to take every warning seriously. Stay well away from the water and check current access before visiting; the shoreline has changed since our trip.

The jagged Reynisdrangar sea stacks rising from the ocean

Sea stacks off Reynisfjara

Reynisdrangar

These jagged sea stacks are the detail that draws your eye offshore. We liked how their shapes rose out of the water beyond the dark beach.

They belong with your Reynisfjara stop rather than a separate beach excursion. Admire them from a permitted safe viewpoint, without moving closer to the surf for a photograph.

Iceland rarely sits still

Strokkur and the Golden Circle.

Strokkur erupting into a blue sky with visitors behind the viewing boundary

Haukadalur geothermal area

Strokkur geyser

After all the falling water, watching it shoot upward was a change of pace. We stood with the other visitors and watched Strokkur send its plume into the sky.

Pair it with Gullfoss when planning your Golden Circle time. Stay behind the barriers around the hot springs and let the eruption come to you.

A night we will remember

Looking up at the northern lights.

Seeing green and purple moving across the Icelandic sky was extraordinary. After days spent looking at glaciers, waterfalls, and mountains, this was a completely different kind of wonder.

A traveler watching green northern lights above the Icelandic countryside
A quiet moment beneath an extraordinary sky.

This belongs to our autumn memories. We would leave room for a night like this without making it the one experience a trip has to deliver.

A softer landing

Reykjavík and a soak at Sky Lagoon.

Michelle standing on the rainbow-painted street in Reykjavík

A little time in the capital

Reykjavík’s Rainbow Street

Our time in Reykjavík was brief, but we found it charming. After so much wide-open scenery, its colorful streets made a lovely change of pace.

Michelle’s stop on Rainbow Street is one of our favorite city photographs. For us, this part of the trip was about a wander and a change of rhythm.

Bathers watching sunset over the ocean from Sky Lagoon

A relaxing finish

Sky Lagoon

Sky Lagoon was our reward after traveling in the campervan. We loved the ocean view, the ritual, and relaxing with a glass of sparkling wine as the sun went down.

It was a splurge we were happy to make. Check current packages and availability for your dates.

Visit Sky Lagoon’s official website ↗

What worked for us

Making Iceland fit our budget.

Iceland is expensive. But with a few choices that suited the way we travel, we managed to make our trips comparable in cost to other vacations. That doesn’t mean there’s one cheapest way to do it, or that our old costs are a quote for your dates.

Combine transport and lodging

A campervan gave us both a way to move around and a place to sleep. It made sense for us compared with staying in Reykjavík and paying for tours to the places we wanted to see. Compare the whole cost: rental, insurance, fuel, campsites, and the comfort you need.

Use the grocery store

Being able to cook was a big part of the savings. Stocking up on groceries helped us avoid paying restaurant prices for every meal and left room in the budget for experiences we really wanted.

Allow for fuel

Fuel was expensive, though we were pleasantly surprised by the efficiency of our vehicles on both visits. Your rental and route will make a difference. Build fuel into the plan before deciding that a long driving day is a bargain.

Choose your splurges

We saved on everyday costs and still made room for the ice cave and Sky Lagoon. For us, that balance mattered more than doing Iceland for the smallest possible number.

Visitor-information links checked October 28, 2026. Access, tours, campsite availability, and conditions can change.

Come along with us

Watch our Iceland journey.

Our original video brings these places together with more scenery, personal thoughts, and the money-saving choices that worked for us.

Watch “Must see spots and ways to save money in Iceland” on YouTube ↗

More from our travels

Where to next?

Would we go back?

Absolutely. Iceland is somewhere I can imagine returning to for the rest of my life.

No luxury. No hostels. Real travel for real people.

Travel well. Make it count.